Igorot Artifact at the Louvre

Sunday, September 28, 2008

It was in April 2003, on my 5th visit to France that I was able to fully explore the Musée du Louvre (the Louvre Museum), reputed to be the world's most visited art museum. I went there early Saturday morning and marveled at the amount and beauty of the exhibits. I wouldn't consider myself an art enthusiast, but even an ordinary Joe like me appreciate beautiful creations. Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo were amongst the most popular exhibits with plenty of excited visitors taking photographs of these.

Egyptian antiques dominate one section - I read somewhere that most of Egypt's ancient treasures are either in France or in England. The oldest item I saw was a wall painting that was 4000+ years old, though there could be older artifacts which I was not able to view.

A lot of the artworks were done by artists from France, Italy and Spain and I spent most of the morning and afternoon going over them. The afternoon was almost ending as I drew to a small section of the museum featuring American, Asian and Oceanian antiques. My heart was pounding in anticipation as I wondered if there was an exhibit from the Philippines. I saw just one representing our country of 80+ million people. Enclosed in a glass box was a carved wooden figurine holding a bowl. It was a type of bulul, and an engraved note indicated that it was previously owned by the anthropologist William Beyer.

Photo Credit: Wikimedia.org

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Remembering Auntie Rhoda

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

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NOTE: This was originally posted in my now defunct blog - BlogBlog ni Kamulo II on Oct 2007. Auntie Rhoda started the popular "Sagada Weaving and Souvenir Shop" and this continues to be one of Sagada's biggest employers. The store is now being managed by her children. This week is the first anniversary of her death.
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Around noon 22 years ago, a bewildered 8 year old boy sat down at a living room, bawling. Moments before, his eldest sister has informed him that their father passed away earlier that morning. The boy was grieving, yet perhaps not knowing the full gravity of the situation. In the same room with him were his 3 older sisters; all of them crying. They were living with their grandparents, which they do when they reach second grade age as the school system in that place was much better. Their parents and 2 younger sisters lived at a farm, a good 12 hours by bus / jeepney. The death of the father is the worst shock these children have ever experienced, and as they sat in that living room, a sobbing voice permeates the room. It was their aunt, their father’s youngest sister, and upon seeing the children, she embraced them and said, “An-ak ko, an-ak ko!” (My children, my children!) That aunt was my Auntie Rhoda. I was that 8 year old boy. That tragic morning is among my most vivid childhood memories.

Growing up, my aunt was one of several authority figures in our extended family. I saw her as someone who was very straight forward. She was strict, and she had rules. I wouldn’t say that she was sweet, that description is better reserved for another aunt. And there were times I stayed away from her, because I dreaded her reaction since I broke one of her rules. But there were moments I remember, when she showed how much she cared. Like when she went out in the evening to buy me some candies after I threw a tantrum having lost to an older sister in chess. Or when she played ping pong with us at a makeshift table above her shop. And there was a time when she complemented me after cleaning her room – saying it couldn’t have been done better. That compliment I fully remember since there weren’t a lot from her – but as her nephew, I knew that it wasn’t because she didn’t approve. She did approve, she just showed it in other ways.

Auntie Rhoda managed a weaving and souvenir shop that was started by her mother, my grandmother. I don’t know the exact figures, but I know the business grew multiple-fold through the years under her management. She trained and employed dozens of women who wouldn’t have had the chance to work elsewhere. Later on, when some of her employees became her direct competitors, I asked her how she felt about it. She shrugged and said it didn’t matter. According to her, it was something that was waiting to happen. No hard feelings, no drama, no sentiments of feeling betrayed - she just quoted my grandmother - "Ay sinu nan adi mangan?" ("Who does not want to put food in the table?")

Perhaps, my aunt's most understated achievement was fully supporting my siblings and I through our secondary and college education. It wasn’t easy, there were six of us and at one time, four of us were in university. After providing for our tuition fees one semester, I saw her deep in thought. I knew that her business wasn’t going smoothly and there were challenges regarding the pricing of her raw materials. When I asked her what she was thinking, she smiled and said, “I’m just happy that I’m able to put aside some money for all of you until the end of this semester. Let’s see what happens afterwards”. Auntie Rhoda went beyond providing for our education - we never really sat down and talked about it but from her actions, she taught me about looking beyond the present, fulfilling long term commitments, and helping others.

After graduating from college, my aunt and I engaged in memorable intimate conversations. One of the things that she told me was, some months after my father died, she had a recurring dream where my father kept visiting her. She said that it was only after she promised my dad in a dream that she’ll take care of his children’s education that the recurring dream stopped. Looking back, that was an incredible commitment from someone who didn’t have the resources at that time. But as with other commitments my Aunt Rhoda made, she always delivered!

It has been more than 10 years since I graduated from college and had the privilege of visiting many places as part of my job. More than a year ago, I exchanged my frequent flier miles for a round trip ticket so my aunt could go to the United States to visit her daughter and grandchildren. That visit never materialized. On March 2007, Auntie Rhoda was hospitalized to remove a tumor in her brain. She spent many months in the hospital, most of which she was non communicable. After 6 months, her recovery was good enough that she was transferred out from the hospital to fully recover at her sister’s house. Just when everything was pointing to a steady and fast recovery, I got a call at dawn from my eldest sister saying that our beloved Auntie Rhoda passed away. I wasn’t able to attend her wake as my family and I were currently out of the country. During her wake, a lot of us cried when my mother told those present that she was very grateful for Auntie Rhoda since she took responsibility left by her older brother (my dad).

Two weeks prior to her death, I had the privilege of talking to Auntie Rhoda and was so joyful to know that she was conversing with relative ease. We were planning to go to the Philippines and had scheduled to spend some time to be with her. Her last words to me were, “I’ll see you in October”. As I type this post, I am with my family on board a plane from Chicago to Manila. Something in me is aching knowing that I won’t be able to see my aunt when I go home. As I look at my sleeping kids, I think about my aunt. She sacrificed to provide opportunities for others. If I can pass that trait to my children, her legacy will live on.

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Sagada and Drugs - An On-going Struggle

Saturday, September 20, 2008

A reader left the following comment in a similar post I had on Sagada and drugs (click here for the link).

"i want to comment about this drug issue snan ili tako. ay inayan tay snan 16 years ay ninteteak snan ili tako, dan ado obpay nan adik amo ay maikikan. men-os-os-kila ak d wani sna up, ngem ay ngan nan aped da kanan ken sak-en, agtak kano daida is mj tay ado kano nan mula tako...

d siyempre nakikidebate ako na mali sila, ay maid kadtodi ken datako. ngem isnan nagbisitaak snan kabsat father ko, kanana ay tetewa kano di. siyempre shocked ako tay dan egay ko polos inamamo nan tetewa ay mikmikan."
Here's a typical i-Sagada talking, and with that, I'm referring to the way the reader uses English and Kankana-ey words and phrases in the same sentence. Here's my best translation of the above: "I want to comment about this drug issue in our town. Its surprising that in the 16 years that I've stayed in our town, there are many happenings that I wasn't aware of. I'm currently studying in UP, and this is what they told me - that I give them mj (for marijuana) since we have a lot of these planted... Of course, I debated and informed them that they were wrong, that we didn't have such stuff. But, upon meeting with an uncle, he told me that it was true. I was shocked because I didn't know what was really happening."

I empathize with the reader. He/she may have come from the same family as I did - a very protective one. I also didn't know much about this stuff, until I saw things firsthand. And that was already when I was in high school. Indeed, drugs in Sagada will only benefit a few persons - but it could lead to Sagada's downfall if this is not corrected.

One of the things that the local government can do is to work with schools and the teachers to increase awareness. Hold special programs to educate elementary and high school students about the effects of marijuana use. Make it as graphic as allowed to make the point across. Discuss not just the health effects, talk about other consequences as well. Selling and using marijuana is illegal and leads to imprisonment, family separation, and poverty. These impact not just one individual - but families and communities. How the Sagada community will handle this drug problem is critical - its a struggle it can't afford to lose.

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Hector Begeo: An Igorot Olympian

Friday, September 19, 2008

"Hector Begeo (born June 19, 1964) is a three-time Olympian representing the Philippines. He is the national record holder in the men's 3000m Steeplechase. He also place second and silver in the 1983 Asian Championships. He is the only Filipino to advance into a semi-final in the 3000m Steeplechase in an Olympic event during the 1988 Seoul Olympics."

From Wikipedia

Now that the Olympics is over, I was wondering if there ever was an Igorot who participated in the Olympics. I had a hunch about a certain athlete and a quick google search pointed me to his Wikipedia profile, which quickly confirmed what I thought. Begeo's name is not pronounced as be-ge-yo as most Filipinos mistakently pronounce it. Instead, it is best pronounced using a German character, ö - umlaut, transcribed as 'oe' like 'i' in "sir". Try using the vowel sound in "sir" to pronounce bö-göw. (Kung ser ang pagkasabi mo, ambot sa imo, hehehe.) Aside from competing in the Olympics, he won four SEAG gold medals between 1983 and 1999 as well as the 1983 Asian Games bronze.

As a high school student during the 1991 Manila Southeast Asian Games, I watched Hector in one of his races. It was a weekend evening - the starting line of the steeplechase was just in front of where I was standing, and fellow Filipinos were egging him on as the athletes were warming up. I shouted "Go Hector!" and I vividly remember that he looked up to where I was seated and raised his hand in acknowledgment. The race started - and one could see that Hector was pacing himself, staying with the lead pack but not in the lead. He maintained his position which led to some impatient bystanders to question why he was not taking the lead. In the last lap however, Hector made his move and grabbed the lead. The stadium went wild and roared their approval with chants of "Philippines, Philippines!". The pace on the last lap was considerably faster than most of the race. Midway through the final lap, Hector has built a sizeable lead. He did glance back at his opponents at least twice before finally crossing the finishing line with the crowd cheering loudly.

I watched his victory lap before slipping out of the stadium and finding a jeepney back to the boys dormitory where I was staying. Watching that race made me feel real proud as a Filipino and an Igorot. My memory of that race is so clear even after 17 years!

There are dozens of Igorot athletes who have shone in international competitions. Recently, Franklin Kawaen (pronounced ka-wa-ön), an Igorot karate instructor based in Dubai was crowned World Cup champion. (See related article.) In due time, an Igorot athlete will soon win an Olympic medal - mabe even gold. Whether or not he is competing for the Philippines is a different story altogether.

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An IGOROTAK Moment

Saturday, September 13, 2008


IGOROTAK - Kankana-ey for "I am an Igorot", an acknowledgment of one's Igorot identity

My boys, who were all born in Quezon City, have spent majority of their young years in Manila and in the US. They've spent at most - a couple of months total in the Cordilleras and these were during vacations in Baguio / Sagada / Tadian. When I asked them if they were Igorots, I got a range of answers from being uncertain ("Are we?") to an outright denial ("No.") I guess I can't blame them. It's not a daily discussion for us. While my wife and I converse in Kankana-ey, they don't see the connection.

So, when there was an opportunity for us to join a gathering of Cordillera people last August, I didn't let it pass. (See previous blog posts on BIBBAK.) It was a chance for them to see fellow Igorots, and see Igorot dances being performed. Before going to the gathering, I prepped them to answer correctly when asked if they are Igorots. ("Yes, we are.") If asked what made them Igorots, they should respond with, "because our parents are Igorots".

At the gathering, there was an opportunity for group dancing. When I joined during a dance, I asked my second child to join as well. He didn't want to. But when I joined, he called his older brother so they could watch me. After the dance, I joined them and told them that they should have joined since it was a lot of fun. My second child said that he just didn't want to. At that, a young teenage girl who had her back on us turned around and said, "You shouldn't be. When I was younger, I also didn't feel like it. But its good to know about your roots." She then stood up and showed the shirt she was wearing. It read "Igorotak!". She asked my son to read it and then turned around, since at the back of the shirt, the phrase was explained - something like "an assertion of one's Igorot identity".

My son blurted out, "Yes, yes, I know I am an Igorot" and the older girl exchanged high fives with him. Like my son, the girl is part of a generation where though both parents are Igorot, they were raised in other places where that identity is not as strongly asserted as it would have been if they grew up in the Cordillera region. In this case, the parents bear the primary responsibility of letting their children know about their origins. Involving them in such gatherings is just one part of it. The chance conversation with the girl was a brief yet memorable moment for my son. He wasn't alone. I just hope that there would be more of these Igorotak moments for him and his brothers.

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October 2008 Sagada Tour

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Sagada Image: A house built upon the rocks (Photo Source)

While I'm not a big fan of organized tours, it does have its advantages. It's convenient, you have a guide, you get to follow a plan, you just have to pay, and show up. And, you get to share your experiences with a group and in the process, meet new friends. On the other hand, it can be very unflexible and will leave little to explore. Still, for first timers in Sagada, a tour can be a good start. It will allow one to check out the places in passing, and plan for another future visit knowing what to do and what to see.

I found the following Sagada tour being offered for October 2008 (from while the road is hot blog). For around $100, it is a very good deal.

SAGADA SCENE 2008
4 days / 3 nights

October 18-20, 2008
PACKAGE AT P4, 500 per person

all inclusive of:

*round trip air-conditioned bus Manila-Bontoc-Manila
*Jeepney transfer Bontoc-Sagada-Bontoc
*3d/2n accomodation
*Service tour transfer around Sagada
*breakfast and buffet lunches and dinners
*environmental permits and entrance fees
*Service of the Local Sagada Guides and Cave guides and lamps
*Service of the tour director

ITINERARY:

Day 0 October 17, 2008
06:30 PM Meeting Time at the Bus Terminal
08:00 PM ETD Manila to Bontoc

Day 1 October 18, 2008
06:00 AM ETA Bontoc
09:00 AM Check-in
10:00 AM brunch
11:15 AM free time
01:30 PM Start of Tours
Day 1 October 18, 2008
06:00 AM ETA Bontoc
09:00 AM Check-in
10:00 AM brunch
11:15 AM free time
01:30 PM Start of Tours
- Bangaan rice terraces
- Bomo-ok Big Falls
07:00 PM Dinner
08:30 PM socials

Day 2 October 19, 2008
06:00 AM Wake-up Call
07:00 AM Breakfast
08:00 AM Start of Tours (trekking)
- Hanging Coffins
- Sagada Town Proper
- Echo Valley
- Calvary Hill
- Sagada Weaving
11:30 PM Lunch
01:00 PM Continuation of Tours (spelunking/cave connection/rapelling)
- Sumaguing Cave
- Lumiang Cave
05:00 PM free time (shop for souvenirs and pasalubong)
07:00 PM dinner

Day 3 October 20, 2008
04:30 AM wake up call
06:00 AM ETD Bontoc to Manila
04:00 PM Manila
- Hanging Coffins
- Sagada Town Proper
- Echo Valley
- Calvary Hill
- Sagada Weaving
11:30 PM Lunch
01:00 PM Continuation of Tours (spelunking/cave connection/rapelling)
- Sumaguing Cave
- Lumiang Cave
05:00 PM free time (shop for souvenirs and pasalubong)
07:00 PM dinner

Day 3 October 20, 2008
04:30 AM wake up call
06:00 AM ETD Bontoc to Manila
04:00 PM Manila

If you're interested in this tour, email heattheroad08@yahoo.com

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